24 Feb Snares Island: New Zealand Sub-Antarctic
Alex Burridge – December 2024
MD Luxury and Expedition Cruises
It’s day three of our voyage and we’ve been making our way south to a very small Island called Snares Island. It was named by Captain George Vancouver in 1791 as he considered them a danger to shipping.
Our first encounter was limited to a ‘cruise-by’ on the ship due to a significant swell, strong winds and rain. From a distance we saw Snares crested penguins climbing up the ‘slide’, and around the ship there were literally thousands and sooty shearwaters (approx. 2 million pairs) and many Common diving petrels (one million pairs).
Salvin’s (possibly 100,000 pairs) and Buller’s (8,000 pairs) albatross breed on the Islands. We saw a number of them on the water. We also did a lap of the Islands hoping for a more sheltered spot as the swells are just too large for a safe zodiac excursion.
The Snares – New Zealand’s Sub-Antarctic
Fast-forward 10 days and we are back at the Snares. Fortunately we had time to re-visit as the Island is close to our path back to Bluff. I take a walk out on deck (the best weather forecast) to find it’s overcast and raining. I’m thinking it’s maybe just not going to happen, or won’t be a very good experience.
It briefly stops raining and I decide I’d be stupid not to go….(there’s a good chance I may never be here again). I am so very happy that I made that decision.
The zodiac cruise was an adventure all of its own. We made our way to the back of the islands through some decent swell. Once we were on the sheltered side, the island seemed to change and open up with low growth forest (large tree daisy) blanketing the slopes. Small inlets with rivers run down from the Island. Snares crested penguins use the river beds to make there way to and from the island. Antarctic fur seals, Snares tomtits, fernbirds, albatross….
Sooty Shearwaters and Cape Petrels breed on The Snares
Penguin Slide – the Snares
Snares Crested Penguins graceful exit from the Southern Ocean
Snares Crested Penguins
The weather wasn’t perfect but for parts of the zodiac cruise the sun tried to come out. We cruise along the steep shoreline, through cave tunnels, and finally round a rocky outcrop to find ourselves close to the ‘slide’: a large rock face, clear of vegetation, due to the thousands of Snares crested penguins that use the rock face to get to and from their nest sites on the island.
We watch as waves of penguins catch a wave and get dumped onto the rock face – it’s an amazing spectacle, one I am so very happy I did not miss.
Wave of Snares Crested Penguins
Buller’s Albatross near Penguin slide
I had forgotten my iPhone that I use for landscape shots so I am sorry I can’t show you all the Snares has to offer.
Finally it’s time to head back to the Heritage Adventurer. We head back through the large swell and close-by we see Buller’s albatross settled on the water – for me, a fantastic end to our off ship adventures.
The Snares Tomtit
Tree Daisies
A day at sea, a farewell dinner and then it’s back to Bluff.
As I stated in my other articles – an awesome and adventurous expedition which I highly recommend.
Courting Snares Crested Penguins
The Slide
Zodiac Cruise at the penguin slide (we don’t go in front as it blocks the penguins ‘run-up’)
I travelled on-board the Heritage Adventurer operated by New Zealand operator Heritage Expeditions. The crew were almost all Kiwis (with a couple of Aussies), and their experience, knowledge and passion for their back-yard shone through. Some of the crew had been involved with eradication programmes on Campbell Island and also helped with advice for Macquarie Island’s eradication programme.
The Heritage Adventurer is a classic purpose built older expedition cruise ship. She was originally named the MS Hanseatic built in Finland and launched in 1991 and operated by Hapag-Lloyd cruises.
She’s been refurbished to a high standard and offers very comfortable accommodation. She high an ice rating of 1A, making her well suited to sail in the Great Southern Ocean as far as the Ross Sea.
The Heritage Adventurer offers a range of voyages exploring New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands and Macquarie.
Please call 1300 784 794 to find the voyage that best suits your interests.
To book your cruise, contact us on 1300 784 794 or email: contact@luxuryandexpeditioncruises.com.au.
